Discovering Copenhagen: A Journey Through Denmark’s Vibrant Capital

Welcome to Copenhagen, the enchanting second stop on our Scandinavian adventure! What began as a spontaneous addition to our itinerary between the breathtaking landscapes of Norway and the ethereal wonders of Iceland, quickly unfolded into an unforgettable urban escape. My partner, Mark, and I decided on Copenhagen for several compelling reasons: its vibrant city energy, strategic geographical location making it a convenient flight hub from Bergen to Iceland, and most importantly, its renowned culinary scene. As a passionate foodie, the promise of exceptional dining experiences was an irresistible draw.

This leg of our journey marked a special milestone—our first time traveling together completely alone. After eight incredible days exploring Norway with our wonderful friends, Lars and Solfrid (if you haven’t caught up on our Norway adventures, check out the post HERE), we were eager for some dedicated time to explore as a couple. We also received invaluable insights from my friend Mel, a design school colleague who had not only studied abroad in Copenhagen years ago but had also chosen to make it her home. Her extensive list of local favorites, combined with a delightful evening spent at her house enjoying dinner and a local beer, provided us with an authentic insider’s perspective.

Planning Your Copenhagen Adventure: Arrival and Getting Around

Our arrival in Copenhagen on a bustling Friday evening was seamless. Navigating from the airport to our AirBnB via the city’s efficient Metro system proved incredibly straightforward and budget-friendly. While our particular stop required a pleasant ten-minute walk with our luggage, the beautiful weather made it an enjoyable stroll. Had the skies opened, a quick Uber from the Metro station would have been our easy backup plan, highlighting the city’s excellent transport options.

Where to Stay in Copenhagen: Finding Your Perfect Home Away From Home

For our Copenhagen stay, we opted for an AirBnB over a traditional hotel, a decision that exceeded all expectations. We truly hit the jackpot with our host, Morten, whose generosity with local recommendations for dining and sightseeing was invaluable. Our choice to splurge a little on a centrally located flat directly on “The Lakes” paid off immensely. The Lakes, a picturesque chain of five man-made waterways nestled in the heart of Copenhagen, offered unparalleled convenience for navigating the city and provided a stunning backdrop for our morning runs.

Our charming one-bedroom flat was meticulously designed and perfectly suited our needs. At $171 per night, it was worth every penny, offering both comfort and accessibility. From our doorstep, most of Copenhagen’s must-see attractions and culinary delights were within a 5 to 20-minute walk. While the apartment, like many urban flats in Copenhagen, was cozy, it was perfectly proportioned for two travelers and provided an authentic local living experience. We wholeheartedly recommend it for those seeking a central and inviting base.

(Images courtesy of AirBnB.com)

Top Things to See and Do in Copenhagen: Exploring Denmark’s Capital

We spent a total of four nights and three invigorating full days immersing ourselves in Copenhagen’s unique atmosphere. While it’s certainly possible to experience the city’s highlights in just two days, especially if you embrace the local cycling culture, we chose to explore exclusively on foot. This allowed us to truly soak in the city’s intricate details and discover hidden gems at our own pace. Copenhagen boasts an extraordinary biking community; in some areas, bike lanes are even wider than car lanes! Though bike rentals are readily available, we relished the freedom of walking, avoiding the hassle of locks and helmets, and enjoying a more intimate connection with our surroundings.

Once again, we were incredibly fortunate with the weather, experiencing only a brief drizzle on one of our three days. The temperature was ideal for jeans and a tank top, making our explorations thoroughly enjoyable. Here’s a detailed look at the iconic sights and vibrant experiences that defined our Copenhagen adventure:

Copenhagen Street Food at Paper Island (Papirøen)

Kicking off our sightseeing with a true highlight, Paper Island (or Papirøen, as it’s known locally) immediately captured our hearts. This sprawling marketplace is a mecca for street food lovers, offering an incredible array of global cuisines—from Mexican and Asian to Scandinavian, Paleo, and Vegan. Imagine a lively island where food trucks representing every ethnicity converge, creating a vibrant feast for the senses. It was a bit of a walk from our AirBnB, but the beautiful weather made the journey enjoyable. We indulged in a memorable lunch and local beers, savoring the diverse flavors and convivial atmosphere. Paper Island is an absolute must-visit for any foodie exploring Copenhagen, especially if you appreciate variety and a lively, communal dining experience.

Torvehallerne Food Market: A Culinary Paradise

Just a short distance from our flat, the Torvehallerne Food Market felt like a culinary dream come true. This large, upscale organic food market in the heart of Copenhagen is a paradise for gastronomes. Here, you can find everything from exquisite local produce and gourmet specialty items to artisanal bakeries, boutique breweries, wine merchants, and inviting coffee shops. We spent over an hour simply wandering through its partially indoor space, which also makes it an excellent rainy-day activity. On our first visit, we stocked up on breakfast essentials—fresh vegetables, fruits, eggs, and a loaf of delicious bread—allowing us to enjoy home-cooked meals and save a bit on dining out. Be mindful that prices here, owing to its central location and quality offerings, tend to be a bit higher.

Copenhagen’s Vibrant Shopping District

No city exploration is complete without a stroll through its shopping district, and Copenhagen’s bustling retail heart did not disappoint. We visited on a weekend, experiencing its energetic, packed atmosphere. We particularly enjoyed browsing the elegant Danish and Scandinavian design shops, though familiar American brands were also present. If you plan to shop, we recommend dining before or after your visit, as food prices in this central area are typically elevated.

The Royal Palace (Amalienborg Palace)

While we appreciated its central location, our visit to the Royal Palace was brief. We admired its grand exterior, snapped a few photos, and continued our exploration. For those with a keen interest in royal history and architecture, deeper exploration is possible, but we chose to prioritize other experiences.

Climbing the Round Tower (Rundetaarn)

The Round Tower was the only paid attraction we visited in Copenhagen. As we aren’t typically museum-goers, we gravitate towards unique, active experiences. This historic tower offered an engaging and affordable adventure. The climb to the top, via its unique spiral ramp (originally designed for horses!), rewards visitors with panoramic views of the city. Though our day was a bit overcast, we still enjoyed the expansive vistas. While not a quintessential “must-do,” it’s a fun, inexpensive activity for those who appreciate unique architecture and cityscapes.

The Iconic Nyhavn Harbor

Nyhavn, with its postcard-perfect colorful 17th and 18th-century townhouses lining the canal, is undoubtedly Copenhagen’s most iconic street. While stunning to behold, its popularity means it’s often bustling with tourists, especially on weekends. We passed through Nyhavn on our way to Paper Island, navigating crowds of people enjoying canal boat tours and riverside cafes. We paused only long enough to capture a few photos of its vibrant beauty. For a more tranquil experience, visiting during a weekday might offer a less crowded glimpse of this charming harbor.

Freetown Christiania: A Self-Governing Enclave

Freetown Christiania was, without a doubt, the most fascinating and unconventional experience of our Copenhagen trip. This self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood, a “free town” within the city, operates under its own unique laws and even once had its own currency. It’s a truly distinctive, liberal village that defies easy description—a place you truly need to experience to understand. One of its most peculiar aspects is “Pusher Street,” an area where cannabis is openly sold, despite being illegal in Denmark. The vendors, often masked, operate amidst signs warning against phones and cameras, creating an atmosphere of clandestine openness. Christiania offers a thought-provoking glimpse into an alternative way of life and is a compelling visit for those seeking something truly different.

Running and Relaxing by The Lakes (Søerne)

The Lakes, a picturesque chain of five man-made lakes centrally located in Copenhagen, served as our personal urban oasis. With a circumference of 6.4 kilometers, the path around the lakes is perfect for running, walking, or cycling. We joined hundreds of other locals for exhilarating morning runs, an experience reminiscent of the vibrant running culture around the lakes in Minneapolis. For any runners visiting Copenhagen, this is an absolute must-do. Our AirBnB was conveniently situated right by one of these lakes, which we affectionately nicknamed “Swan Lake” due to the abundant and graceful swans that call it home.

Exploring the Hipster Charms of Nørrebro Neighborhood

We dedicated time to exploring the Nørrebro neighborhood, an adorable and characterful area where our friend Mel resides. Nørrebro exudes a quiet, quaint, and distinctly hipster vibe. Mel and her boyfriend graciously hosted us for a delightful dinner, where she prepared delicious bean burgers. One of Mel’s top recommendations was to wander along Jægersborggade, a trendy street lined with charming independent shops, organic cafes, and a relaxed, creative atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot for an afternoon of casual browsing and people-watching.

Assistens Kirkegaard: A Park-Like Cemetery

Mel also recommended a visit to Assistens Kirkegaard, Copenhagen’s famous cemetery, which is the final resting place for many celebrated Danes, including H.C. Andersen. Initially, we were hesitant, as cemeteries in the States are typically solemn places. However, Mel explained that in Denmark, cemeteries like Assistens Kirkegaard serve as beloved public parks, where locals often sunbathe, picnic, and simply relax. We’re so glad we went; it was indeed a beautiful, serene park, and it was wonderful to see how the community utilizes and cherishes this unique green space.

A Culinary Tour of Copenhagen: Where to Eat and Drink

Our research prior to arriving in Copenhagen had already hinted at a gastronomic paradise, and the city truly delivered. Without a doubt, our culinary explorations in Copenhagen accounted for the largest portion of our travel budget across all three Scandinavian countries. Between my somewhat loose approach to budgeting and the sheer quality of Copenhagen’s food scene, we happily indulged. After all, Copenhagen is globally celebrated for its innovative and diverse cuisine!

An Indulgent Evening at Pintxos (Tapas Bar)

Our dinner at Pintxos was by far our most extravagant meal of the entire 16-day trip. Recommended by our AirBnB host, we knew it would be good, but we hadn’t anticipated such an exquisite experience. Upon being seated on their charming back patio, we discovered that only a set menu was available that evening: a magnificent 14-course Spanish tapas meal, priced at $50 per person. Starving after a day of exploring, and captivated by the enticing aromas, we enthusiastically embraced the opportunity. Naturally, such an elaborate meal called for a bottle of wine to complement the flavors. Every dish was a delight, and while a 14-course meal was certainly generous, the quality and experience were utterly worth it. Spanish-style tapas remain one of my favorite cuisines, making this splurge a truly memorable one.

Brunch Bliss at Cafe 22

As a devoted breakfast enthusiast, Cafe 22 was a delightful discovery. Located directly across The Lakes from our accommodation, we spotted it during one of our morning runs. Their Sunday brunch buffet was simply irresistible. The flat pancakes were incredibly delicious, perfectly complemented by freshly pressed coffee. It was the ideal spot for a relaxed and hearty start to our day.

Refreshing Stops at Joe & The Juice

A chain highly recommended by numerous Instagram friends, Joe and the Juice lived up to its reputation. With multiple locations scattered throughout the city, it became our go-to for quick, delicious smoothies and juices. Beyond the healthy beverages, it also offered the reliable convenience of clean restrooms – a small but appreciated detail for any traveler!

Artisan Breads and Pastries from Laura’s Bakery

Nestled within the vibrant Torvehallerne Food Market, Laura’s Bakery offered some truly fantastic bread. We purchased a half loaf of their whole grain seedy bread to enjoy with our morning coffee, a decision we never regretted. The quality and freshness were exceptional. We also couldn’t resist taking home a few of their phenomenal-looking pastries, which proved to be equally delightful.

Indulging in Danish Pastries at Lagkagehuset

For an authentic taste of Danish pastries, particularly the famous “snails” (cinnamon rolls), Lagkagehuset was the place to be. Recommended by one of Mark’s college friends who had studied abroad in Copenhagen, this bakery became our frequent stop for an afternoon coffee and a sweet treat. The pastries were utterly divine, offering a true taste of Danish culinary tradition.

Authentic Tacos at Hija de Sanchez Taquería

A taco craving hits me about once a week, so I was thrilled when we stumbled upon Hija de Sanchez Taquería. This fantastic food truck/stand is located in the bustling outdoor section of the Torvehallerne Food Market, offering an authentic taste of Mexico right in Copenhagen. It was the perfect fix for my weekly taco yearning!

A Unique Gluten-Free Wrap at Brass (Paper Island)

At Paper Island, I chose to dine at Brass, a stall specializing in gluten-free egg wraps brimming with organic vegetables and savory meats. My choice—an egg wrap filled with braised organic pork, fresh spinach, cabbage, radish, pickled peppers, and a creamy yogurt tahini dressing—was an absolute revelation. I had never encountered a wrap made almost entirely from egg, but this creation was bursting with flavor and packed with wholesome ingredients. I would eagerly order it again!

Quality Brews at Coffee Collective

The Coffee Collective instantly reminded me of Colectivo Coffee in Milwaukee, sharing a similar vibe and commitment to quality. This chain, also recommended by Mel, became our reliable stop for excellent coffee throughout our stay. Their dedication to craft and cozy atmosphere made it a perfect spot for a quick caffeine boost.

Craft Beer Exploration at Mikkeller Brewery

After a wonderful dinner at their home, Mel and her boyfriend introduced us to Mikkeller Brewery, a local microbrewery nestled in the Nørrebro Neighborhood. Boasting an astounding selection of over 50 beers on tap, it was a craft beer lover’s paradise. While Danish beer proved to be pricier than in the States (though less expensive than Norway), averaging around $12-$15 a pint, the experience was well worth it. Thanks to encouragement from Mark, my sister, Lin, and Emily, my appreciation for beer has grown, and I proudly chose a delicious wheat beer, confident in their approval!

Final Thoughts & Travel Tips for Copenhagen

My overall impression of Copenhagen is that it’s a truly trendy, health-conscious, and incredibly active city. I was captivated by the collective emphasis on well-being, evident in the abundance of organic cafes and the general active lifestyle of its residents. The city’s dedication to quality food and drink, coupled with a strong focus on healthy living, truly resonated with me. Danish architecture and design, with its elegant minimalistic style, was another major highlight, offering constant inspiration through its beautiful buildings and innovative products. The city’s proximity to the water further enhances its charm and provides a serene backdrop to urban life.

Reflecting on our trip, if we were to plan this leg again, we might shorten our Copenhagen stay by one day to extend our time in Iceland. The reason being, Copenhagen’s main attractions are remarkably centrally located and can genuinely be explored thoroughly in just two full days. We faced some minor logistical challenges with our flights, which resulted in almost a full day wasted in transit between Copenhagen and Iceland. While we chose not to visit any museums, Copenhagen is a treasure trove for museum enthusiasts. For those who appreciate art, history, and culture, the city offers an array of world-class institutions.

Regardless of your specific travel style, Copenhagen should not be overlooked on any Euro tour or Scandinavian adventure. Its vibrant atmosphere, stunning design, and especially its unparalleled food and drink scene, make it an essential stop for any discerning traveler. Dive into the culinary delights, explore the charming streets, and embrace the unique Danish way of life—Copenhagen truly has something special for everyone.