Our Scandinavian journey continued with a captivating stop in Copenhagen, Denmark – a city that quickly captured our hearts with its unique blend of historic charm, vibrant culture, and world-renowned culinary scene. This leg of our adventure was a somewhat spontaneous decision, filling a three-day gap between our time in Norway and Iceland. The choice of Copenhagen felt incredibly serendipitous, driven by a desire for a lively urban experience, its convenient proximity to Bergen (our departure point for Iceland), and, perhaps most importantly, its stellar reputation as a food lover’s paradise. For two avid food enthusiasts like us, the promise of exceptional Danish cuisine was an irresistible draw.
This segment marked the first time my partner, Mark, and I would be traveling completely on our own during this extensive trip. After eight wonderful days exploring Norway with our friends Lars and Solfrid (for those curious about our Norwegian escapades, you can find the detailed account here), we eagerly anticipated the undivided ‘us time’ Copenhagen offered. We arrived armed with invaluable insights from my friend Mel, a former design school classmate who initially studied abroad in Copenhagen years ago and later chose to make it her home. Her extensive list of local favorites and the warm invitation to her house for dinner and a beer one evening truly enriched our experience, offering an authentic glimpse into local life.
Our Copenhagen experience began on a bustling Friday night. Navigating from the airport to our Airbnb via the efficient Metro system was remarkably straightforward and budget-friendly. Upon reaching our designated stop, a pleasant ten-minute stroll with our suitcases under a clear, beautiful sky led us to our accommodation. Had the weather been less forgiving, a quick Uber ride from the Metro station would have been our easy alternative, but we relished the opportunity to immediately immerse ourselves in the city’s charming atmosphere on foot.
<< WHERE TO STAY IN COPENHAGEN >>
For our stay in the Danish capital, we opted for an Airbnb, a decision that proved to be an absolute triumph. Our host, Morten, was a treasure trove of local knowledge, generously providing recommendations for the best eateries and must-see attractions, which significantly shaped our itinerary. We consciously chose a slightly higher price point for a truly central location, right on the edge of “The Lakes.” These five picturesque, man-made lakes form a serene heart within Copenhagen, making navigation across the city incredibly simple. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, they offered a fantastic route for our morning runs, allowing us to kickstart our days with invigorating exercise alongside local residents.
Our accommodation was an absolutely charming one-bedroom flat, perfectly sized for two and immaculately presented. It quickly felt like a cozy home away from home, and I wholeheartedly recommend it for couples visiting Copenhagen. Priced at $171 per night, it offered exceptional value, placing us within a maximum 20-minute walk of virtually every major attraction and culinary hotspot – with most key destinations accessible within a mere 5 to 10 minutes. While the flat was compact, reflecting the typical size of urban living spaces in Copenhagen, it was thoughtfully designed and offered everything we needed for a comfortable stay. Travelers requiring extensive space might find it snug, but for those seeking an authentic and centrally located base, it’s an ideal choice.
Images sourced from Airbnb.com.
<< UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS & THINGS TO DO IN COPENHAGEN >>
Mark and I dedicated four nights and three full days to exploring the wonders of Copenhagen. While it’s certainly possible to cover the main highlights in two days, especially if you embrace the city’s prevalent cycling culture, we opted to experience everything on foot. Copenhagen boasts an unparalleled biking community; bike lanes often rival or even surpass car lanes in size, and cycling is the primary mode of transport for many residents year-round. Despite the accessibility of daily bike rentals, we chose to walk everywhere, believing it offers a richer, more intimate perspective of a city. Plus, it freed us from the logistics of securing bikes and carrying helmets, which, interestingly, many locals seemed to forgo.
Our visit was blessed with exceptionally pleasant weather. Out of our three full days, we experienced only a brief drizzle on one afternoon, with temperatures perfectly suited for jeans and a light top – a delightful continuation of our good fortune throughout the trip. Here’s a detailed look at how we spent our time exploring the best of Copenhagen:
Copenhagen Street Food at Paper Island (Papirøen): Our absolute favorite activity in Copenhagen was undoubtedly a visit to Paper Island, or Papirøen. This sprawling marketplace is a culinary haven, bringing together an incredible array of global street food vendors. Imagine dozens of food trucks, each specializing in a different cuisine – from Mexican tacos and vibrant Asian noodles to traditional Scandinavian dishes, and even paleo and vegan options – all united on a picturesque island setting. It was, quite literally, my cup of tea for so many reasons. Though a bit of a walk from our Airbnb, the beautiful weather made the journey enjoyable. We spent a delightful afternoon here, sampling diverse dishes and soaking in the lively atmosphere, perfectly paired with a local beer.
Torvehallerne Food Market: If I could, I would move into Torvehallerne! This place is an absolute dream for foodies and truly a gem in the heart of Copenhagen. It’s a vast organic food market where you can discover an incredible selection of local produce, artisanal specialty items, and enjoy delicious lunches from a variety of local businesses. The market boasts everything from wine shops and small breweries to exquisite bakeries, aromatic coffee stands, fresh meat counters, and charming flower stalls. We highly recommend allocating at least an hour, if not more, to leisurely explore its offerings. Part of the market is indoors, making it an excellent refuge on a rainy day. On our first day, Mark and I stocked up on breakfast essentials – fresh vegetables, seasonal fruits, eggs, and a rustic loaf of bread – allowing us to enjoy delicious, cost-effective meals in our Airbnb kitchen. A small note: given its prime central location, prices here can be slightly higher, but the quality and experience are well worth it.
Copenhagen’s Vibrant Shopping District: When exploring any new city, a visit to its shopping district is always a must. In Copenhagen, the central shopping area truly pulsates as the heart of the city. Our visit coincided with a weekend, which meant the streets were absolutely teeming with people, creating an exhilarating buzz. We particularly enjoyed browsing the chic Danish and Scandinavian design shops, marveling at their minimalist aesthetics, and even stumbled upon a few familiar American brands. Be advised, however, that due to its prime central location, food prices within this district are notably higher. We recommend grabbing a meal before or after your shopping spree to avoid the inflated costs.
The Royal Palace (Amalienborg): We made a point to admire the Royal Palace from its exterior. Strategically located in the city center, it’s easily accessible for those interested in exploring royal residences. While we chose not to venture inside, we paused to capture a photograph of its impressive facade, appreciating its historical significance and elegant architecture before continuing our explorations.
The Round Tower (Rundetårn): The Round Tower was the only paid attraction Mark and I visited during our Copenhagen stay. As we’re not typically museum-goers, we gravitate towards unique experiences, especially those involving a bit of a climb! The entry fee for the Round Tower was very reasonable, and the ascent to the top, via its unique spiral ramp, was an enjoyable experience in itself. From the summit, we were rewarded with sweeping panoramic views of the city. Despite a somewhat muggy and overcast day, the vista was expansive and allowed us to orient ourselves within Copenhagen’s charming cityscape. While not an absolute ‘must-do,’ it offers a fun, affordable activity and a memorable perspective of the Danish capital.
Nyhavn: The Iconic Canal District: Nyhavn is undoubtedly the most picturesque and iconic street in Copenhagen, instantly recognizable from countless photos and postcards with its vibrant, multi-colored buildings lining the canal. This historic waterfront district is steeped in charm, boasting 17th and 18th-century townhouses, bustling bars, and inviting cafes. While it was truly stunning to behold, its popularity means it is often exceptionally crowded with tourists. Thousands thronged the streets, with hundreds embarking on scenic canal boat tours. We passed through Nyhavn en route to Paper Island, making a brief stop solely for a quintessential photo opportunity. Should we return, we would aim for a weekday visit, hoping for a slightly less crowded and more tranquil experience to truly soak in its beauty.
Freetown Christiania: A Unique Enclave: Without a doubt, exploring Freetown Christiania was the most fascinating and unconventional experience Mark and I had in Copenhagen. Christiania is precisely what its name implies: a self-proclaimed autonomous commune, a small, liberal village nestled within the heart of Copenhagen, operating under its own distinct laws and even its own currency. It’s a place that’s challenging to fully describe without experiencing it firsthand, making it an absolute must-visit for anyone in Copenhagen seeking a truly peculiar cultural immersion. One of its most striking features is the infamous “Pusher Street,” where, despite marijuana being illegal in Denmark, it is openly sold by vendors who often wear masks to conceal their identities in case of police raids. Signs emphatically warn against using phones or cameras on this specific street, adding to the area’s intriguing, almost clandestine atmosphere.
The Lakes (Søerne): Copenhagen’s Green Heart: The Lakes are a beautiful chain of five man-made lakes, forming a prominent and serene feature centrally located within Copenhagen. A full circuit around these lakes spans 6.4 kilometers, making them an incredibly popular spot for running, walking, and cycling. We joined hundreds of locals, running the loop twice, and the sheer volume of active individuals reminded me fondly of the vibrant running culture around the lakes in Minneapolis. For any runners visiting Copenhagen, this is an absolutely essential experience! Our Airbnb was conveniently situated right beside one of these lakes, which we affectionately nicknamed “Swan Lake” due to the elegant swans that gracefully inhabit its waters, adding to its picturesque charm.
Exploring the Nørrebro Neighborhood: We dedicated some time to exploring the vibrant Nørrebro neighborhood, primarily because it’s where my friend Mel resides. Nørrebro exudes an adorable, distinctly hipster vibe, characterized by its quiet streets and quaint charm. Mel and her boyfriend graciously hosted us for a delightful dinner at their home, where she prepared absolutely delicious bean burgers – a memorable and authentic local experience. One of Mel’s top recommendations was to spend time wandering down Jægersbroggade, a trendy street boasting an array of charming independent shops, organic cafes, and a generally laid-back, creative atmosphere.
Assistens Kirkegården: Copenhagen’s Unique Cemetery-Park: Assistens Kirkegården is Copenhagen’s renowned cemetery, serving as the final resting place for many famous Danes, including the beloved author H.C. Andersen. It was Mel who suggested we visit, and initially, Mark and I were hesitant, as visiting cemeteries isn’t a common leisure activity in the States. Mel explained that in Denmark, Assistens Kirkegården functions as a communal park where locals often gather for sunbathing, picnics, and leisurely strolls. I’m incredibly glad we followed her advice; it’s a beautifully maintained green space, and witnessing the community embrace it as a vibrant public park was a truly refreshing and insightful cultural experience.
<< WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN COPENHAGEN >>
Based on the extensive research Mark and I conducted prior to our trip, I knew Copenhagen was destined to be a sensational culinary adventure. This city definitely accounted for the largest portion of our food and drink budget across all three Scandinavian countries. Between my inability to meticulously track expenses and the sheer allure of Copenhagen’s renowned food scene, we happily indulged. It’s a city celebrated for its innovative and diverse cuisine, and we were eager to experience it firsthand!
Pintxos (Tapas Bar): Our Most Memorable Dinner: Pintxos stood out as by far our most extravagant, yet utterly delightful, dinner experience of our entire 16-day trip. We hadn’t initially planned on such an elaborate meal, but upon arrival, we were warmly escorted to their charming back patio and informed of that evening’s set menu: a spectacular 14-course tapas meal, priced at $50 per person. The aromas alone were captivating, and feeling quite famished after a day of exploring, we readily committed. Naturally, such an extensive meal called for a perfect pairing, so we added a bottle of wine to our order. Pintxos came highly recommended by our Airbnb host, assuring us of its quality. This Spanish tapas bar truly delivered an absolutely delicious and unforgettable dining experience. While perhaps half the courses would have sufficed, the opportunity to savor authentic Spanish-style tapas in Europe, one of my absolute favorite cuisines, was too good to pass up!
Cafe 22: A Delightful Brunch Spot: As a devoted breakfast enthusiast, I can confidently say Cafe 22 exceeded expectations. Conveniently situated directly across The Lakes from our accommodation, we stumbled upon it during one of our morning runs. Spotting a Sunday brunch buffet was an irresistible invitation! Their flat pancakes were simply delicious, perfectly complemented by freshly pressed coffee, creating an ideal start to our Sunday in Copenhagen.
Joe & The Juice: Refreshing On-the-Go: This popular juice and smoothie bar was highly recommended by numerous Instagram followers, and for good reason. As a chain, Joe & The Juice locations are conveniently scattered throughout the city, making them an excellent choice for a quick, healthy smoothie or fresh juice. Their reliable and clean restrooms were also an added bonus during our urban explorations!
Laura’s Bakery at Torvehallerne: Artisanal Bread Heaven: Nestled within the bustling Torvehallerne Food Market, Laura’s Bakery is a true gem, renowned for its fantastic bread. We purchased a half-loaf of their wholesome whole grain seedy bread to enjoy with coffee each morning, a decision we were incredibly glad for. The rich aroma and delicious texture made for perfect breakfast accompaniments. We also couldn’t resist taking home a few of their phenomenal-looking pastries, each a miniature work of art.
Lagkagehuset: The Home of Danish Pastries: For an authentic taste of Danish pastries, Lagkagehuset is the quintessential destination. We made several stops here for an afternoon coffee and a sweet treat, often indulging in their famous “snails” – a delightful local pastry. Mark’s good friend, who studied abroad in Copenhagen, specifically highlighted this as THE place to go for traditional Danish baked goods, and it certainly lived up to its reputation!
Hija de Sanchez Taquería: Satisfying Taco Cravings: My weekly taco craving struck while in Copenhagen, and I was absolutely thrilled when we discovered Hija de Sanchez! This authentic taquería operates as a food truck/stand within the outdoor section of the Torvehallerne Food Market, offering delicious, genuine Mexican flavors that were a welcome treat amidst our Scandinavian culinary explorations.
Brass at Paper Island: An Innovative Egg Wrap: While exploring the culinary offerings at Paper Island, I sampled a truly unique creation from Brass: a gluten-free egg wrap packed with organic vegetables and succulent meat. It was incredibly flavorful! I chose an egg wrap filled with braised organic pork, fresh spinach, crisp cabbage, radish, tangy pickled peppers, and a creamy yogurt tahini dressing. I had never encountered a wrap made almost entirely from egg, but this dish was bursting with flavor and generously loaded with fresh, vibrant vegetables. I would definitely order this again!
Coffee Collective: A Cafe with Character: The name “Coffee Collective” immediately brought to mind Colectivo Coffee in Milwaukee, and indeed, they shared a similar inviting vibe. We made several stops at this chain cafe, which was also highly recommended by my friend Mel, appreciating its consistently excellent coffee and welcoming atmosphere throughout the city.
Mikkeller Brewery: Craft Beer in Nørrebro: After a wonderful dinner at Mel’s house, she and her boyfriend took us to Mikkeller Brewery, a local microbrewery located in the trendy Nørrebro Neighborhood. Boasting an impressive selection of over 50 beers on tap, it was a craft beer lover’s dream! While beer prices were noticeably higher than in the States (though less exorbitant than in Norway), typically ranging from $12-$15 depending on the selection, the quality and variety were exceptional. Thanks to the influence of Mark, my sister, and friends like Lin and Emily, I’ve developed a greater appreciation for beer, and I’m sure they would have approved of my delicious wheat beer choice that evening!
Our overall impression of Copenhagen is that it is a remarkably trendy, design-forward, and health-conscious city. We were particularly struck by the active lifestyle of its residents and the strong emphasis on organic and wholesome options when it comes to food and drink. The abundance of organic cafes and eateries truly delighted my heart! I also developed a profound appreciation for Danish architecture and design; the clean lines, minimalist aesthetic, and functional beauty of the buildings and products were incredibly inspiring. The city’s close proximity to the water, with its canals and lakes, further enhanced its charm and livability.
Reflecting on our travel plans, if we were to re-plan this segment of our trip, we might shorten our Copenhagen stay by one day to extend our time in Iceland. The primary reason is that Copenhagen’s major attractions are quite centrally located and can be comfortably explored within two full days, especially if you’re efficient. Our flight scheduling, unfortunately, led to nearly a full day lost in travel between Copenhagen and Iceland. Copenhagen offers a quintessential city experience, and it’s worth noting that we didn’t visit a single museum during our time there. However, for those who appreciate world-class museums, Copenhagen certainly has plenty to offer. If you’re planning a Euro Tour or a broader Scandinavian adventure, do not skip Copenhagen. Its vibrant atmosphere, stunning architecture, and especially its incredible food and drink scene, make it an indispensable stop on any discerning traveler’s itinerary.