Oh my gosh, Becky… where do I even begin?! This Scandinavian vacation truly stands out as one of the most incredible journeys I’ve ever embarked upon. Our adventure began with an exhilarating eight days exploring the diverse landscapes of Norway, followed by a delightful four-day immersion in the charming city of Copenhagen, and concluded with a captivating three-day discovery of Iceland’s otherworldly beauty. To do justice to each unique destination, I decided it would be best to chronicle our experiences country by country, rather than attempting to cram everything into one impossibly long post. And so, our magnificent Scandinavian saga kicks off with the breathtaking beauty of Norway!
Norway, oh Norway, how deeply I fell in love with you. From the moment we arrived, I felt an profound sense of peace wash over me, a feeling rooted in countless wonderful reasons. Firstly, I was fortunate to be traveling with truly incredible human beings, whose companionship made every moment brighter. Secondly, my passion for mountains found its ultimate expression here; the sheer grandeur and serene beauty of Norway’s peaks are simply unparalleled. Mark and I had decided early on in our European adventure planning that an active trip was a must, and Norway instantly became a non-negotiable destination. Its mountains and iconic fjords are nothing short of epic, promising endless opportunities for exploration and adventure.
Adding an invaluable layer to our journey was our good friend from high school, Lars, who lives in Bergen and grew up on the picturesque western coast of Norway in a town called Stordal. Lars, an exchange student during our school days, always shared stunning photos of his outdoor escapades, making a visit to him a long-standing dream. Fortuitously, Lars was able to take an entire week off work to join us, serving as our personal, expert guide to his homeland. We even had the privilege of staying at his parents’ house, which offered a truly authentic immersion into Norwegian life. Having a native alongside us was an absolute game-changer; their intimate knowledge of the country’s hidden gems, local customs, and the best ways to navigate the terrain allowed us to experience the “real” Norway, far beyond typical tourist trails. This truly felt like #KeepingUpWithTheNorwegians in the best possible way!
Our Norwegian odyssey spanned eight incredible days. Three of those days were spent soaking in the vibrant atmosphere of Bergen, while the remaining five were dedicated to exploring the breathtaking Sunnmøre region. Due to time constraints, we made the conscious decision to forgo visits to Oslo and the Lofoten Islands on this particular trip. While both are high on my list, the sheer scale of Norway demands more time than we had. This simply means that a return trip to this magnificent country is not just a hope, but a definite plan for the future!
Bergen: Gateway to the Fjords
Our journey to Norway began with a seamless flight from Chicago to Bergen on Icelandair. The first leg was a comfortable 5.5-hour flight to Reykjavik, followed by a quick 2-hour hop to Bergen. We were incredibly lucky with no delays, making our travels remarkably smooth and stress-free. Upon arrival in Bergen, we were warmly welcomed by Lars and his wonderful girlfriend, Solfrid, with whom we stayed for three memorable nights. Their adorable one-bedroom condo, nestled right in the heart of the city, proved to be the perfect base, just a convenient 10-minute walk from virtually everything Bergen has to offer. Witnessing Lars and Sol’s commitment to walking everywhere – to work, the grocery store, the gym – was truly inspiring and a testament to the city’s pedestrian-friendly nature.
We had three full, action-packed days to explore Bergen, aiming to strike a perfect balance between its renowned tourist attractions and its more authentic, off-the-beaten-path local experiences. Lars, our exceptional guide, led us on three distinct and absolutely amazing hikes, which I’ll detail below. Beyond our outdoor adventures, we spent considerable time simply wandering through the city’s charming streets, soaking in its unique atmosphere. One evening, Lars and Solfrid even invited us along for a night out with their friends, which provided an incredibly fun and authentic glimpse into Bergen’s vibrant social scene. It was the ideal blend of exploration and local immersion.
Bergen’s Best Hikes
Fløyen – This is undoubtedly the most iconic and popular hike in Bergen, a must-do for any visitor. The panoramic view of the city from the summit is nothing short of spectacular, offering a truly iconic postcard-perfect vista. I’d categorize it as an easy to moderate hike; while it’s uphill the entire way, the path is well-maintained and accessible, typically taking anywhere from 40 minutes to an hour to reach the top. Many locals incorporate this ascent into their daily fitness routine, a testament to its convenience and invigorating challenge. What’s more, the trailhead was incredibly close, just about a 5-minute walk from Lars’ condo in downtown Bergen, making it an ideal urban escape.
Stoltzen/Fløyvarden – While this hike conveniently shares its starting point with Fløyen, it quickly diverges onto a different, more challenging path. We embarked on the route from Stoltzen to Fløyvarden, and the entire loop took us approximately three hours to complete. Along the way, we were treated to the sight of an amazing, tranquil lake nestled high in the mountains, as well as a charming cabin offering a rustic resting spot. The initial section of the hike was notably steep, demanding good stamina, but once we gained altitude and were truly “up in the mountains,” the terrain graciously flattened out a bit, allowing for more comfortable trekking. Despite a persistent mist that accompanied us for the entire duration, we thoroughly enjoyed this hike. The view from the top was absolutely spectacular, and a major highlight was that the trail was predominantly frequented by locals, offering a more authentic mountain experience away from the bustling tourist crowds.
Sandviksbatteriet – Try saying that three times fast! I had explicitly told Lars that I enjoyed challenging, straight-uphill hikes, and this one certainly did not disappoint. The hike began promisingly, but our adventurous spirit (or perhaps a poorly marked trail) led us astray onto an unexpected detour. What was supposed to be a straightforward path turned into a literal scaling of the mountain face – a true “real-life CrossFit” experience! The hike we *actually* did became vigorously difficult, far exceeding its intended 40-minute ascent time. Compared to the other Bergen hikes, Sandviksbatteriet felt more rugged, enveloped by dense forest and characterized by rockier terrain. The reward at the summit was truly unique: an old bunker built by the Germans during WWII, offering a fascinating historical perspective alongside the stunning views. It was an unexpected adventure that pushed our limits and added an unforgettable layer to our Bergen hiking repertoire.
I absolutely adored every moment of hiking in Bergen! What particularly amused me was my habit of greeting every single person we passed on the trail, a common and friendly practice where I come from in the States. To my surprise, I consistently received no response. Lars found this absolutely hilarious, explaining that it’s simply not customary for strangers to greet each other in Norway. While I’ve grown accustomed to a friendly “hello” on the trails, the stoic silence from fellow hikers struck me as, well, just plain strange! Nevertheless, it was an interesting cultural observation that added a touch of humor to our otherwise serene mountain excursions.
Bergen City Exploration
Exploring the Shopping District & Indulging in Soft-Serve Ice Cream: As we found ourselves in a vibrant metropolitan city, it felt only natural to immerse ourselves in the local shopping district. While the boys caught up on some sports, Sol graciously took me on a delightful stroll through downtown Bergen to explore the local boutiques and shops. It was an amazing experience, offering a glimpse into Norwegian style and craftsmanship. As a self-proclaimed ice cream enthusiast, I seize every opportunity in a new city to sample their local frozen treats. And let me tell you, Bergen excels at soft-serve! Their rendition is exceptionally creamy and delicious, a truly perfect indulgence after a day of exploration.
Pub Quiz at Finnegan’s Irish Pub: On our very first night in Bergen, we dove straight into a local favorite: a pub quiz at Finnegan’s. It was a fantastic way to ease into the city’s atmosphere, especially since the quiz was conveniently held in English! Given that drinks in Norway can be quite expensive, it’s a common local custom to “pre-game” at home before heading out for just one or two drinks. Sol and I shared a giant cider, while the boys enjoyed some local Norwegian beers. The atmosphere was lively, and participating in the quiz with our new friends was a brilliant introduction to Bergen’s nightlife and camaraderie.
Cocktails at No Stress & Shuffleboard at Barkollektiv: Experiencing a true “night out” in Bergen was incredibly fun and memorable. Again, due to the high cost of drinks (we’re talking around $12 for a basic beer!), we smartly pre-gamed at home before venturing out. Our first stop was No Stress, a bar renowned for its truly awesome and innovative cocktail menu. I daringly ordered a frozen GREEN mojito, which was as visually stunning as it was delicious. After savoring our unique concoctions, we moved on to Barkollektiv to try our hand at shuffleboard. I had never played before, but to my pleasant surprise, I discovered I’m quite good at it – just saying! A huge bonus of going out in Bergen is that virtually everyone speaks English, making communication effortless and enhancing the overall social experience.
Heart-Shaped Norwegian Waffles at Bar Barista: My friend Lin, who visited Norway the previous year, insisted that I absolutely *had* to try the waffles at Bar Barista. And I’m so glad we did – they were phenomenal! Staying true to my preferences, I ordered the classic PB&J waffle, a delightful combination of sweet and savory. What makes Norwegian waffles truly special, beyond their delicious taste and soft texture, is their distinctive heart shape, adding a charming touch to this beloved local treat. It was the perfect, cozy breakfast experience.
After our exhilarating three days in Bergen, Lars, Mark, and I packed up the car and embarked on a scenic journey northward. Our route involved navigating three different ferries and approximately seven hours of driving, culminating in our arrival at Sjøholt, Norway, the charming hometown of Lars’ parents. The drive itself was an experience, winding through incredible landscapes and showcasing Norway’s efficient ferry system as an integral part of its transportation network.
The Majestic Fjord Coast of Sunnmøre
Words genuinely fall short in attempting to describe the unparalleled beauty of Norway’s western coast. I often dreamt of waking up every single morning and stepping onto my porch, gazing out at the serene, majestic fjord spread before me – a truly swoon-worthy vision. Sjøholt, our home base for the next five days, is ideally situated about 40 minutes from Ålesund, the closest airport, and conveniently close to Geiranger, one of Norway’s most famous and stunning fjords. This prime location made it the perfect launching point for hiking, kayaking, fishing, and boundless exploration of the surrounding natural wonders.
Despite having just over 1,000 inhabitants, Sjøholt boasts a fantastic surprise: they have a CrossFit box! Lars’ parents, Lars Sr. and Evy, are both dedicated members, working out there three times a week – a testament to the active lifestyle prevalent in the region. Speaking of Lars’ parents, staying with them was an absolute delight. Lars Sr. had just returned from a successful reindeer hunt (he got one!), and I had the wonderful opportunity to cook alongside Evy, sharing stories and culinary traditions. Their home, perched right on the mountainside, offered a porch with an absolutely breathtaking, unobstructed view overlooking the fjord. To say it was beautiful would be an immense understatement; it was truly sublime. Sjøholt served as our comfortable and welcoming sanctuary, from which we either explored the immediate area or took captivating day trips to nearby towns, each revealing more of Norway’s mesmerizing beauty.
NOTE: The day we departed for Sjøholt, I unfortunately woke up with a terrible sore throat and the onset of a cold, which persisted for over a week. I was borderline feverish for much of that time and suffered from significantly low energy. This, regrettably, forced us to alter a few of our initial plans. However, rest assured, we still had an absolutely amazing time, adapting our adventures and finding joy in every moment. I spent a lot of time sipping tea and consuming honey like it was my full-time job, but even this couldn’t dampen the spirits of our incredible Norwegian experience.
Sjøholt’s Scenic Hikes
Verahornet – Without a doubt, Verahornet claimed the top spot as my absolute favorite hike in Norway. While challenging, with an ascent totaling about 60 minutes, it offered the most incredible reward: the view from the summit was utterly unreal, a sweeping panorama that defied description. This hike was made even more special by the company of Lars’ childhood exchange student, Eric, who happened to be in town. Eric, originally from Alaska but now studying in Norway, shares a deep passion for the outdoors and photography. He and his girlfriend, Marta, joined us, making the experience even richer and more enjoyable. These stunning, professional-quality photos are courtesy of Eric’s incredible talent.
Hovsnakken – This particular hike started quite literally in the backyard of Lars’ childhood home, offering a uniquely personal connection to the landscape. When Lars asked what kind of hike we were in the mood for, I enthusiastically declared, “STRAIGHT UP HILL!” I genuinely enjoy all types of hikes, but on that day, I was craving a significant challenge. Unfortunately, this was day three of my developing illness, and about halfway up the truly strenuous, extremely difficult ascent, I had to make the tough decision to turn back. My heart rate was through the roof, and I felt dizzy, worried I might pass out. Despite not reaching the summit and missing out on the panoramic view, we still managed a solid 45-minute uphill trek, and my glutes certainly felt the burn. Even a partial climb of Hovsnakken proved to be a formidable workout.
The Iconic Geirangerfjord
Our day trip to Geiranger was an absolute highlight of our time in Sunnmøre. The journey from Sjøholt involved a picturesque 45-minute drive, followed by an unforgettable hour-long ferry ride through the majestic fjords from Hellesylt. The ferry itself was one of the best parts of the experience, offering unparalleled views of the towering cliffs and cascading waterfalls. We were blessed with another beautiful day, which allowed us to capture some truly breathtaking photographs of this UNESCO World Heritage site. For those who have seen the thrilling Norwegian film, The Wave, Geirangerfjord serves as its dramatic and awe-inspiring setting!
Upon our arrival in Geiranger, our first priority was to find a place for lunch. Geirangerfjord is an incredibly popular tourist destination, particularly renowned among cruise ship passengers. On the day of our visit, two massive cruise ships were majestically docked in the water, adding significantly to the town’s population. Geiranger is not a particularly large town, and with the influx of tourists, it was bustling and vibrant, creating a lively atmosphere as we sought out our meal.
Fresh Fish and Local Beer at Posten Brassiere: Following a recommendation from one of Lars’ brothers, we chose to dine at Posten Brassiere. Situated right on the fjord, there seemed no better place to savor a fresh fish dish. I opted for the halibut, a flaky and perfectly cooked local delicacy, which I paired with a crisp pilsner from the nearby Geiranger Brewery. This meal truly stood out as my absolute favorite from the entire Scandinavian trip – it was incredibly fresh, bursting with flavor, and beautifully presented with vibrant colors. A perfect culinary experience in an even more perfect setting.
After a thoroughly satisfying lunch, it was time to continue our exploration, and that meant one thing: time to hike!
Storseterfossen Waterfall Hike: Our love for waterfalls is strong, and Storseterfossen certainly delivered! We drove a scenic route up the mountainside to Vestros, the starting point for our hike. This moderate trail took us approximately an hour round trip. What was particularly striking was how relatively quiet this hike felt, despite the large number of tourists in Geiranger. We passed only a handful of people, suggesting that the physical activity of hiking might deter some visitors, which suited us perfectly! The highlight of this trail was its incredible finale: we had the unique opportunity to walk *behind* the Storseterfossen Waterfall, feeling the spray and hearing the roar of the water from an entirely new perspective. It was an incredibly cool and immersive experience, connecting us intimately with Norway’s powerful natural beauty.
Driving to the Summit of Dalsnibba: The final unforgettable activity in Geiranger was our ascent to the very top of Dalsnibba. This involved a challenging yet spectacular 13-mile drive up the winding mountain road, all to experience what promised to be the most amazing, sweeping view of the fjord below. Confession time: I get incredibly carsick, so this drive was, for me, a significant personal challenge. HOWEVER, I can unequivocally say that the view from the summit was entirely worth every moment of discomfort. Once again, we were incredibly fortunate with the weather; the skies were clear enough to offer an unobstructed panorama of the entire Geirangerfjord, with just a few artful clouds accentuating the dramatic landscape. The top of Dalsnibba was quite busy, especially with numerous tour buses bringing people up when the weather is favorable, but the sheer grandeur of the view made the crowds fade into insignificance. Beyond the breathtaking summit, the drive itself was a visual feast, passing by multiple ancient glaciers and serene mountain lakes, adding layer upon layer of spectacular natural beauty to the experience.
My overall impressions of Norway can truly be summed up in one word: WOW. These photographs, while beautiful, honestly do not do this country justice; Norway is an absolutely breathtaking place that needs to be experienced firsthand to be truly appreciated. I can confidently say, I WILL BE BACK. We were incredibly, remarkably lucky when it came to the weather during our visit. Out of the eight days we spent in Norway, we somehow managed to have almost continuous sunshine, with only our travel day experiencing anything less. Solfrid mentioned that it had rained every day in July except for three, which really highlights just how exceptionally fortunate we were to encounter such glorious conditions! I suppose the unpredictable weather is perhaps the only potential “downfall” of Norway. There are so many magnificent places to hike and engage in outdoor activities, but the weather doesn’t always cooperate. Yet, even knowing that, I’m certain I would still eagerly strap on my hiking boots, pull on my rain jacket, and head out to explore, no matter what the skies decide to deliver. The beauty of Norway is simply irresistible.